When Stones Turn Soft and Angels Grow Wings: The Spectacle of La Verna
All I was really looking for was a quiet mountain hike—a few winding trails, fresh forest air, and some peace and quiet. Yet, as if drawn by some strange magnetism, my van eventually rolled into the parking lot of the Santuario della Verna. It wasn’t until the first busloads of tourists and pilgrims came streaming past me that it dawned on me: this place is no hidden gem. I apparently have an uncanny talent for landing right in the epicenters of global relic worship.
High up on the rugged cliffs of the Casentino, you encounter the perfect symbiosis of untouched nature and meticulously crafted legend-making. What tour guides sell to reverent groups from all over the world with deadly serious expressions requires a fair amount of mental gymnastics from the modern mind.
You have to break down the scenario: adults, having traveled thousands of miles, are told with a straight face that back in September 1224, Saint Francis was taking a peaceful stroll through these woods when a seraph—a six-winged angel—suddenly appeared in the sky. The result of this mystical encounter? Francis emerged with the stigmata, the exact same wounds as Jesus after the crucifixion.
And if you thought that was the limit of the unbelievable, think again. The myth-making toolkit of La Verna has even bigger caliber stories in store. When the Devil himself tried to push Francis off a steep cliff in a fit of frustration, another miracle conveniently occurred: moments before impact, the hard sandstone liquefied like soft wax to catch the saint gently and safely.
It’s no secret that tour guides love a bit of dramatic exaggeration—after all, tourism thrives on a good story. But the tale of the six-winged stigmata angel and the melting rocks definitely takes the cake. Standing among the ancient, majestic beech trees and looking down at the impressive rock chasms, you can’t help but ask yourself: where does genuine faith end and the well-oiled marketing machine of the Middle Ages—which still keeps the cash registers ringing today—begin?
As absurd as these stories may seem at first glance, the fascination of this place is undeniable. It’s a compelling spectacle of the human longing for the supernatural.
But don’t be too quick to crown La Verna’s stigmata as the peak of the absurd. Keep an eye out for my next post! There is actually a whole new level to this. Soon, I’ll tell you about my encounter with a surprisingly young saint, making these ancient myths look like mere warm-up acts.
